WEINGUT TESCH LANGENLONSHEIM | NAHE
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„Die klaren 2018er Rieslinge von Martin Tesch…
…vom Weingut Tesch an der Nahe sind vor dem Hintergrund des heißen Jahrgangs spektakulär kühle, geradlinige Weine im Bauhausstil.“ Stephan Reinhardt, Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung“Naturschauspiel Riesling | Riesling-Lagenbox vom Nahe-Weingut Tesch.
Wer gute Riesling-Weine schätzt und auch gerne mal recht unterschiedliche Vertreter der Königin der Reben probiert, der sollte sich das originelle Angebot des Weinguts Tesch an der Nahe einmal anschauen. Der fast 300 Jahre alte Familienbetrieb in Langenlonsheim baut in der inzwischen 10. Generation hauptsächlich Riesling an. Das Weinbaugebiet an der Nahe ist im internationalen Vergleich sehr klein. „Das Besondere jedoch ist die Boden-Vielfalt: Man findet hier auf nur rund 4.000 Hektar Rebfläche über 150 verschiedene Formationen“, erklärt Winzer und Geschäftsführer Martin Tesch. Die Landschaft bringe so auf ganz natürliche Weise ein breites Spektrum von unterschiedlichen Weinen hervor.Um dieses Naturschauspiel so richtig genießen zu können, hat das Weingut eine Riesling-Lagenbox konzipiert. Erstmals sind alle Weinberge des Gutes in der Riesling-Lagenbox vereint. Wir haben die sechs Gewächse von Tesch aus dem Jahrgang 2018 probiert, unser Fazit: Riesling-Liebhaber lernen hier unterschiedlichste Vertreter und eine breite geschmackliche Vielfalt kennen.
Der Riesling vom Löhrer Berg präsentiert sich erdig und mit Apfelaromen, der Laubenheimer Krone kommt mineralisch und mit Zitrusaromen daher. Der Königsschild punktet mit floralen Noten und Geschliffenheit. Gut gefallen haben uns der fruchtige, extraktreiche St. Remigiusberg, der opulente und cremige Rothenberg sowie der kräftig-würzige Karthäuser.” Thomas Reinhardt | Saarbrücker Zeitung
“Was hat mehr Einfluss auf einen Wein: der Weinberg oder der Winzer? Martin Tesch in Langenlonsheim an der Nahe, setzt ganz auf die Herkunft.
“Vielfalt macht uns einzigartig”, sagt er und versucht in jedem Wein herauszuarbeiten, woher er stammt. Um das Ergebnis nachvollziehbar zu machen, hat Tesch mit dem Jahrgang 2018 eine Riesling-Lagenbox herausgebracht: sechs Flaschen Riesling aus sechs Lagen – verpackt in einer attraktiven Kiste, auf denen die Lagen verzeichnet sind. Da wäre zum Beispiel der Wein vom Löhrer Berg mit lehmigem Boden: Das sorgt für einen runden Wein mit reifen Mirabellen und duftigen Apfelblüten, wie bestäubt mit Puderzucker. Oder die Krone, die unmittelbar daneben liegt. So nah und doch so anders: Hier spielt Sandsteinverwitterung rein, der Westwind sorgt für kühlere Nächte. Das macht den Riesling verhaltener, die Frucht führt kandierte Zitrusfrüchte und eingelegte Pfirsiche mit sich. Der Rothenberg wirkt leichter, die Säure gibt ihm mehr Treibkraft. Der Karthäuser zeigt exotische Noten mit Mango und eine mollige Fülle. Den St. Remigiusberg prägt verwittertes Vulkangestein. Sein Duft erinnert an gebratenen Apfel und Orangenschalen. Es ist nicht nur ein Vergnügen, die Unterschiede zu erfassen, die attraktive Box macht das Sixpack auch zu einem fabelhaften Geschenk…”Caro Maurer, Bonner Generalanzeiger“Martin Tesch is another old favourite,…
…a producer who can fall off the radar because he is no longer a member of the VDP even though he is now intensely single-vineyard-focused…The 2018 vintage of the entry level Riesling Unplugged is the best yet, and hugely appealing for current drinking. Some of the single-vineyard bottlings need to be kept awhile.” Jancis Robinson 8 | 2019
2018 ST. REMIGIUSBERG, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
Tesch’s 2018 St. Remigiusberg Riesling Trocken opens very clear, fresh and pure, with white fruit and mineral notes representing the terroir on weathered volcanic rocks and iron-rich clay soils. Full bodied yet lean and tensioned on the palate, this is a powerful but elegant, tightly woven, crystalline and herbal-flavored Riesling with precisely defined white fruit and remarkable mineral freshness and vitality. This once again is the top wine of the vintage—not only chez Tesch but also in the regional context. Tasted from AP 13 19 in August 2019. | Drinking Date 2019-2030. 93 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtLast, from weathered volcanic soils, the Laubenheimer St. Remigiusberg is light in the mouth with a silk texture, good acidity, finesse, and minerality that needs a bit more time to fully express itself. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 19. 12.5% stated alcohol. 92(+)/A | THE FINE WINE REVIEW – Claude Kolm
The orange one. From a vineyard next to the Karthäuser on weathered volcanic rock and iron-rich clay. Low yields and high extract. Lime syrup – but bone dry and particularly nervy and racy. This is irresistible. Such fine balance and an undertow of dangerous pungency. Drink now or hold. Perhaps my favourite of the bunch – but they are all extremely worthwhile. 12.5% | Drink 2019 – 2029. 17 pts.| jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2018 KARTHÄUSER, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
From warm, early-ripening terroir, Tesch’s 2018 Karthäuser Riesling Trocken offers a clear and bright bouquet with intense and ripe fruit aromas but also a distinctive purity and coolish character. Fullbodied and juicy yet fresh and precise, this is a powerful but also well-structured and sustainable dry Riesling cultivated on weathered red sandstone soils. The wine reveals enormous mineral vitality and tension on the sustainable finish, but it also doesn’t deny the sunny vintage. “That’s what we are looking for,” says Martin Tesch. “The vintage is part of the terroir, and I want to smell and sniff the vintage still in ten years from this wine.” He will. Tasted from AP 12 19 in August 2019. 92 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtTesch’s Laubenheimer Karthäuser is from weathered red sandstone soils. It shows some spice to strawberry and citric fruits, a medium-weight body, good freshness, and notable raciness. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 12 19. 12.5% stated alcohol. 92/A | THE FINE WINE REVIEW – Claude Kolm
The maroon one, grown on a weathered sandstone south-west-facing amphitheatre that’s a little suntrap. The first vineyard to be picked. Fairly broad and rich with a certain graininess of texture and slightly less obvious acidity than some of its stablemates. There’s a little meatiness to this particular Riesling. Distinctive. 12.5% | Drink 2019 – 2025 16.5 pts.| jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2018 KÖNIGSSCHILD, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
From limestone soils mixed with loess and loam, Tesch’s 2018 Königsschild Riesling Trocken (AP 10 19) offers a clear, fresh and lemon-scented bouquet that indicates lovely purity and character. Fullbodied, lush and intense, with grip and good freshness, this is a clear, fresh and powerful dry Riesling with some bitters on the finish. The 2018 Königsschild lacks the concentration, tension and length of the 2017, though, and it also doesn’t have the purity and tightly woven length of the new Riesling Trocken. Tasted in August 2019.Drinking Date 2020-2026. 88 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtThe Langenlosenheimer Königsschild goes to the level of exciting. From chalk, limestone, and loam soils, this wine is light, elegant, precise with lime and other citric fruits. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 10 19. 13.0% stated alcohol. 93/A | THE FINE WINE REVIEW – Claude Kolm
This is the wine in the Tesch range of single-vineyard, colour-differentiated Rieslings that is in brilliant turquoise. Grown on the ‘King’s Shield’ vineyard south of the Löhrer Berg on limestone with loess and loam. Particularly deep-rooted vines. There is half a per cent more alcohol in this wine than in the rest of the range according to the label but it smells and tastes distinctly ethereal. And bone dry too. This is a bit of a ballet dancer – lissom Riesling. The opposite of pushy. It might well benefit from a little bottle age. 13% | Drink 2020 – 2026. 16.5+ pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2018 KRONE, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“The terroir of the Krone [weathered red sandstone and light loam soils] suffered from the drought in 2018, and it wasn’t easy to find the right fruit to produce the wine we want,” says Martin Tesch. Given this reality, his citrus-yellow colored 2018 (Laubenheimer) Krone Riesling Trocken is a remarkable success. The wine shows a pure and flinty, dusty-mineral nose as well as fresh and lemon-scented fruit with good ripeness and concentration. Rich and juicy but elegant and still refreshing on the palate, this is a tightly woven dry Riesling with power, structure and good tension. The mineral freshness and purity are really enormous here. Tasted from AP 11 19 in August 2019. | Drinking Date 2020-2033. 92 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtFrom weathered red sandstone and light loam soils, the Laubenheimer Krone is light and racy with good acidity and grapefruit and lemon aromas and flavors. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 19. 92/A | THE FINE WINE REVIEW – Claude Kolm
A loess and sandstone south-east-facing slope exposed to considerable wind. Martin Tesch describes the wine as having ‘a somewhat edgy disposition’ in his glamorous tasting booklet but actually on the nose it smells particularly settled. Beautifully balanced ripe Riesling fruit on the nose and almost exhibitionistically fruity on the palate. There is certainly structure here. Lots to chew on the end in fact, so perhaps wait awhile before broaching this particularly persistent wine. 12.5% | Drink 2020 – 2027. 16.5+ pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2018 LÖHRER BERG, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
From loamy-gravelly soils and bottled with 12.5% alcohol in this exceptionally warm vintage, Tesch’s Langenlonsheimer 2018 Löhrer Berg Riesling Trocken (AP 09 19) offers a clear and fresh yet intense nose with citrus and apple aromas intertwined with somewhat reductive (but attractive!) sur lie scents. Lush and round on the palate, this is an intense and elegant, well-structured and slightly tannic yet also juicy and persistent Löhrer Berg whose deep soils were a benefit in dry years such as 2018. The finish is also tight and fresh and reveals nice grip and phenolic structure. Tasted in August 2019. | Drinking Date 2020-2033. 91 | ROBERT PARKER – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtFrom loam soils with lots of gravel, this wine has just a slight bit of sweetness betrayed by the delicate acidity. It shows red berry and citric fruits and a light, racy body. Last digits of A.P. Nr: 09 19. 12.5% stated alcohol. 90/B+ | THE FINE WINE REVIEW – Claude Kolm
This means empty mountain. 40-year-old vines on this loamy, gravel-rich site that is particularly fertile. Green juicy apple flavours – bring on the Granny Smiths. Such gorgeous fruit in the middle. Juicy indeed. Neither subtle nor restrained, this should provide early fruity pleasure and more grainy-textured delight in years to come. Very well-judged fruit/acid balance. 12.5% | Drink 2019 – 2025. 16.5 pts.| jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2018 UNPLUGGED, TESCH Riesling trocken Nahe
Martin Tesch calls his 2018 Riesling Unplugged “the star of the vintage,” and he’s does so with good reasons and even more enthusiasm. The 2018 is one of his best Unpluggeds, along with 2015 and also 2017. Bottled with 12% alcohol, this is a winner from an exceptionally warm and dry vintage. New canopy management (higher leaf walls for more shadow between the rows) brings back the Nordic character of the Unplugged that opens with a pure, straight and refreshing nose of white fruits and lemon aromas. On the palate, this is a light and refreshing but structured and even tensioned dry Riesling with mouthwatering phenolic grip on the stimulating and persistent finish. This wine is clear, linear and elegant as always, with no ornaments, no fat, no palatable sweetness and no compromise. The 2018 Unplugged is a terrific Bauhaus Riesling that seems to celebrate the 100th birthday of the art movement that is as vital as this iconic Nahe wine from Martin Tesch. Yes, a star of the vintage, Dr. Tesch! Tasted in August 2019. | Drinking Date 2019-2030. 90 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtUnplugged refers to musicians playing without electric amplification so that the listener gets the most pure version. It is Tesch’s basic Riesling and a very, very good one. You’d never guess that this wine was a from a vintage often characterized by its heat and resulting wines of high alcohol and low acidity. The wine is light as a feather with precise peach skin aromas and flavors, and overall freshness. Outstanding balance and intensity. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 19. 91/A- | THE FINE WINE REVIEW – Claude Kolm
This may be the entry-level wine but what an array of aromas! It’s like a glorious bouquet of wild flowers. Dry enough to drink with or without food, this is neither austere nor excessively fruity. A certain sudden chalkiness on the end marks it out as perhaps not the most glorious of Martin Tesch’s 2018 Rieslings but this wine is a true delight. VGV at under €10 in Germany. Please let us have it in the UK! 12% | Drink 2019 – 2021. 16 pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2018 DEEP BLUE, TESCH trocken
„Deep Blue ist ein ungewöhnlich guter Roséwein. Er sticht deutlich heraus aus der Masse der Rosés, die jedes Frühjahr die Märkte überfluten. Die meisten dieser Rosés gehören in die Kategorie belangloser Spaßwein, wobei Spaß relativ ist. Koloriertes Blümchenwasser würde es manchmal besser treffen. Doch selbstverständlich gibt es auch gute Roséweine, sogar hervorragende, die nicht nur an heißen Sommertagen schmecken, sondern auch im Herbst oder Winter, zu einem Lachstartar, einer Hummeressenz, einer Kürbiscremesuppe. Das gilt auch für Deep Blue. Er ist gehaltvoll und – bildlich gesprochen – eher etwas für den Captain’s Table als für die Kantine der Leichtmatrosen. Er ist knochentrocken. Cocktail-Schlürfer und Nutella-Freunde werden vermutlich nichts mit ihm anfangen können. Andererseits muss man auch kein Heavy Metal-Rocker oder Tote Hosen-Fan sein, um diesen Wein zu mögen. Deep Blue ist nicht laut, nicht wild, nicht schrill. Er ist wie ein vibrierender Soundtrack für ein entspanntes Wochenende zu Hause, allein, zu zweit, ohne Mundschutz und ohne Robert-Koch-Zahlen. Skeptiker gegenüber allem Geschriebenen werden trotzdem fragen: Ist der Deep Blue nur gut oder schmeckt er auch? Die Antwort: hervorragend.“ Jens Priewe, FeinschmeckerJahrgang 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2018 | 2017
