WEINGUT TESCH LANGENLONSHEIM | NAHE
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Jahrgang 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2018 | 2017
WEINGUT TESCH ***
Aufgestiegen! Viel Freude haben uns in diesem Jahr die Rieslinge von Martin Tesch gemacht, allesamt blitzsaubere, markante Weine mit viel Zug am Gaumen und einer Klasse, die uns eine höhere Bewertung wert ist. Die Handschrift ist schmeckbar, die trocken ausgebauten 2019er Rieslinge baden förmlich in ihrer Frucht, die von einer sehr strukturierten Säure beflügelt wird. Das passt bestens zusammen und präsentiert sich wie aus einem Guss. Der Feinschmecker | Die besten 500 Winzer in Deutschland 2021MAN WILL JA NICHT AUS LANGEWEILE STERBEN
Ob die Corona-Krise Auswirkungen auf den Wein habe, werde ich oft gefragt. Keine Ahnung, das werden wir allenfalls nächstes Jahr schmecken können. Per se ist es der Traube aber egal, ob Corona ist oder Grippewelle. Für die Winzer hatte und hat die Pandemie allerdings Auswirkungen. Während des Lockdowns, just zu dem Zeitpunkt, als der der neue Jahrgang in den Startlöchern stand – der in der Spitze wunderbare 2019er -, war schwer an Weinbergsarbeiter zu kommen: Auflagen. Viele – die meisten üblicherweise aus Polen – hatten zudem Angst, sich anzustecken. „Handarbeit ist unbezahlbar geworden“, resümiert Winzer Martin Tesch aus Langenlonsheim an der Nahe. Ein ihm bekannter Spargelbauer musste ein Viertel der Ernte verrotten lassen, weil er nicht genügend Stecher fand. Am Ende bot er Teschs Leuten Phantasielöhne, damit sie nach dem Anbinden der Reben und dem Ausbrechen der Triebe noch zum Spargel stechen kamen. Keine Chance. „Die Arbeit im Weinberg ist Heavy Metal, da weißt du am Abend, was du getan hast“, sagt Tesch, dessen Team sein 18-jähriger Sohn Johannes über Social-Media-Kanäle rekrutiert hatte. Die Digital Natives entdeckten die Landwirtschaft“, so Tesch über die während des Lockdowns am Studieren gehinderten Studenten in seinem Team, von denen einige auch jetzt zur Ernte wieder erwartet werden. Auch aus der Gastronomie und anderen lahmgelegten Branchen liefen Tesch und anderen Weingütern Leute zu. Der Tourneeleiter einer bekannten deutschen Punk-Band promovierte über das Frühjahr sogar zum Vorarbeiter im Weinberg. „Wer Bühnen bei Rock am Ring bauen kann, der kann auch im Weinberg einen Trupp führen.“ Das Betriebsklima während des Sommers sei „klasse“ gewesen, so der Winzer. Auf die polnischen Familien musste er bislang weitgehend verzichten. Ob sie zur Ernte kommen, wusste Tesch noch nicht. „Wir schaffen das aber“, meint er. Frankfurter Allgemeine Sontagszeitung | Sept. 2020 | Reiner Wein
2019 ST. REMIGIUSBERG, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
From volcanic soils, the 2019 Riesling St. Remigiusberg is clear, pure, fresh and smoky/flinty on the warm and coolish, delicate and fruity nose. Rich, intense, very elegant, finessed and vibrantly piquant on the palate, this is a linear, refined and tensioned Riesling with enormous grip and mineral tension on the tight and stimulatingly salty finish. This 2019 is Tesch in perfection. Highly recommended, but be patient: this wine needs several years to reach its peak. Tasted as a sample in May and from the bottle in June 2020. 94 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtJust a tad funky on the nose, but behind that thin screen is a cornucopia of fruit (mostly mandarin and nectarine) and on the palate, there’s no doubt about the ravishing texture that caresses your palate. Drink or hold. 95 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
Lightly smoky and quite immediate on the nose with real lift – gets the saliva flowing. Pretty low-key, dry, rather sudden finish. Reminds me of some Austrian dry Rieslings somehow. 16.5 pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2019 KARTHÄUSER, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
From weathered red sandstone in a warm, southwest-facing vineyard, the 2019 Riesling Karthäuser is beautifully clear, ripe, intense and pure on the complex, terroir-driven nose with its smoky, white fruit aromas and notes of milled stones. Round and piquant on the palate, this is an intense, tight, complex and persistent dry Riesling. It reveals the complex and structured terroir expression that makes the Laubenheimer Karthäuser an outstanding wine almost every year. Tasted as a sample in May and then from bottle in June 2020. 93 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtDrop everything now, because this is oh so serious, but oh so exciting. At once warm and cool, mouthwatering and ripe with a very long, complex herb and mineral finale. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
Really quite exotic and intense on the nose already. A veritable bouquet of scented lilies. Lovely already and verging on opulent. A real charmer with notes of lime syrup, though a bone-dry finish. 16.5 pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2019 KÖNIGSSCHILD, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
The Langenlonsheimer 2019 Riesling Königsschild is fruity and savory up front on the nose that represents the limestone terroir mixed with loess and loam as well as fully ripe and aromatic yet precise and coolish fruit with lime rind, grapefruit, tea and floral aromas. Round and intense on the palate, with a dense and concentrated texture, this is a full-bodied yet compact, filigreed and finely racy Königsschild with tight, lingering mineral freshness and good power and structure. The wine has improved enormously since the sample I tasted in early May. Luckily, I had it again in early August 2020. 92 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtSome people are frightened of dry riesling, because they think the acidity will bite, but this is so generous (plenty of fruit-salad aromas) and, although it’s decisively dry, there’s nothing even vaguely resembling a sharp edge. Substantial, pithy finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 93 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
More fragrant than the Unplugged and, in 2019, I’m not sure it qualifies as ‘elegant’, so much fruit and extract are crammed in here. This single-vineyard wine is a great buy for under €15. There is real breadth on the front palate and then it tightens up thrillingly so that it seems to have a long life ahead. Much longer than one would expect of a wine at this price. Vibrates on the finish.16.5 pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2019 KRONE, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
Tesch’s 2019 Riesling Krone combines ripe and elegant Riesling aromas with the refreshing and iron-scented purity of the weathered red sandstone soils of the Laubenheimer Krone. Elegant and piquant on the palate, this is a medium to full-bodied and pretty round but racy dry Riesling with a fine mineral grip on the tight yet fruity-aromatic finish. The 2019 Krone is substantial and should be a beauty in 6-10 years. Tasted as a sample in May and again as a bottled wine in June 2020. 92 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtNo question, positive thinking is good, but that makes so much more sense when you have a joyful and expressive wine like this (50 shades of lemon!) in the glass. Juicy yet delicate flavors keep you hanging on in there. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 94 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
Spicy nose with real attack. Refined and interesting. These wines certainly make the case for single-vineyard bottlings. Crunchy, with green-apple fruit and nice grainy texture on the finish. Bravo! 16.5 pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2019 LÖHRER BERG, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
The 2019 Riesling Löhrer Berg is beautifully clear, precise and aromatic on the elegant and seamless nose with its flinty, fresh and white/green rather than yellow-fleshed fruit aromas that intertwine with leafy and vegetal notes of fresh peas. The wine offered notes of red-skinned and mealy apples, for example, but also slightly smoked dates and crushed stones in its early stage yet becomes more and more stony now, with some refreshing phenolic notes. The ripeness level is just perfect, though. The loamy-gravelly soils of the Löhrer Berg give a pure, fresh and frisky Riesling with great elegance and finesse and a persistently salty and grippy-mineral finish. Tasted as a sample in May and then from bottle in early August 2020. 92 | ROBERT PARKER – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtThe dry-riesling refreshment rocket has lift off! So much energy it almost bowls you over, but there’s not a gram of excess fat on this sleek and toned body. Super clean, long finish. Drink or hold. 93 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
Tight and mineral on the nose. And then very rewarding (because of the extra half-degree of alcohol?) on the palate. Generous and round – perhaps too generous for some palates? Creamy texture and ready already. I’ve had some GGs with less appeal …16 pts.| jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2019 UNPLUGGED, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
Tesch’s 2019 Riesling Unplugged is pure and intense on the excitingly precise and concentrated yet earthy nose that reveals perfectly ripe stone fruit aromas but in a very discreet way. Lean, fresh and elegant on the palate, the medium-bodied 2019 Unplugged shows remarkable extract and is juicy, piquant and structured, revealing finesse and a very good finish with stimulating mineral acidity and phenolic grip. This is an excellent dry Riesling from the Nahe, and it has rarely ben that good. Tasted as a sample in May 2020. 91 | robertparker.com – The Wine Advocate – Stephan ReinhardtLet’s face it, most of life is everyday and this super straight and pure dry riesling is a super choice for those days. Did I say fish, seafood, salad? Those are just some of the situations in which the great, spring-like freshness of this wine will shine. Drink now. Screw cap. 92 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
Light, floral nose and bone-dry finish with some crystalline acidity in between. This strikes me as perfect for the German palate but perhaps just a little too austere for the average Brit at the moment. 16 pts. | jancisrobinson.com – Jancis Robinson MW
2019 RIESLING “T”, TESCH Riesling trocken
Who can resist this juicy, but properly dry riesling that’s brimming with fruit-salad character. Slightly pithy but clean finish. Drink now. Screw cap. 90 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
2019 Weißes Rauschen, TESCH für DIE TOTEN HOSEN Riesling trocken
Elegantes Bouquet mit feiner Fruchtaromatik. Noten von Zitronenzeste, Kumquat, Limette und Mirabelle. Dazu Honig und kräutrig-würzige sowie florale Anklänge. Am Gaumen filigran und frisch, saftige Säure, viel Zitrus und gelbe Frucht, langer Abgang mit mineralischen Anklängen und etwas Feuerstein. 92 | B. Herzog & D. Vombach für FALSTAFF (Juni 2021)
2019 Rothenberg, TESCH Riesling trocken
“Recommenced with the 2018 vintage, the Langenlonsheimer 2019 Riesling Rothenberg is as pure as a sea breeze and needs time to open up and reveal its coolish, flinty aromas of red apples, redcurrant, ripe stone fruits, hashish, hay and crushed stones. It’s still reductive but clear and distinctive. On the palate, this is a pure, vital and cheerful, yet still nervous Riesling that is still a bit ascetic but firmly structured, intense, long and promising. It’s a very individual style and possibly a highlight in Martin Tesch’s 2019 portfolio! Tasted as a sample in May and after the bottling in June and August 2020.” 92+ | S. Reinhardt | www.robertparker.com“Wine freaks throw the M word (mineral) around as if there’s no tomorrow, when they taste dry riesling, but the important thing is how it fits into the whole taste experience. Here, the juicy, white-peach fruit stands in the spotlight and the complex, crisp-mineral and herbal mystery are in the shadows. That is until you swallow and it says “Hi!”. Drink or hold. Screw cap.” 93 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
2019 DEEP BLUE, TESCH trocken
A real alternative to Miraval! In France, this color would make the wine a Vin Gris. Love the ripe-nectarine and melon character that gives you a warm and friendly embrace. Tank sample. 91-92 | jamessuckling.com – Stuart Pigott
2019 ROSÉ, TESCH Spätburgunder trocken
„Another rosé that screams out that you should fire up the grill! Almost the color of a Spanish rosato, but fresher and more nectarines than red berries, the finale dry, yet supple enough to just slip down. Drink now. Screw cap.“ 91 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
2019 WEISSBURGUNDER, TESCH trocken
„Time for lunch! Everything sits just right in this harmonious and food friendly, medium-bodied dry pinot blanc with a touch of citrus at the finish that pulls you back for more. Drink now. Screw cap.“ 91 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.comJahrgang 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2018 | 2017
